Inked by The Living Legend
Traveling North
Just recently, we braved the grueling 17hrs just to reach Buscalan. We purchased our tickets a day before our trip. By 7pm we are already seated inside an AC Victory liner bus bound to Tabuk, I was with my Brother Paolo, my Boyfriend Aldrich, His borther Alex and Sister Anya and their cousin Shiela.
Kalinga, Here we Go!
It was still dark when we arrived in Tabuk City, Kalinga, a province located at the northern part of Luzon Islands. It was about 5AM. We alighted on a nearby sari-sari store which is almost in front of St. Williams Cathedral. Tired and still sleepy from a long bus ride, we rested and had light breakfast of biscuits and their famous Kalinga Coffee the Tabuk style. The store owner allow us to used their comfort room for us to freshen up.
At 7AM, we walked past the police station towards a couple of jeepneys parked with some passengers inside, we learned that it was bound to Tingalayan. We all feel so adventurous that time that with no hesitation we climbed on the steel bar of the jeep, secured our bags, and positioned ourselves on top of the jeepney getting ready for one hell of adventure!
Top-Load Ride
The sun painted the whole Tabuk city of blue skies with a touch of orange from its rays. The view was beyond perfection!
It wasn't my first time to ride a top load jeep, The first was in Sorsogon, second in Catanduanes, this was actually my third time. The top load ride was a mixture of both fear and excitement; The experience was overwhelming. We saw nothing but endless mountain ranges, green lush forests, clear rivers, and blue skies, 'twas an amazing scenic view.
Top-Load Ride
The sun painted the whole Tabuk city of blue skies with a touch of orange from its rays. The view was beyond perfection!
It wasn't my first time to ride a top load jeep, The first was in Sorsogon, second in Catanduanes, this was actually my third time. The top load ride was a mixture of both fear and excitement; The experience was overwhelming. We saw nothing but endless mountain ranges, green lush forests, clear rivers, and blue skies, 'twas an amazing scenic view.
The ride to Tinglayan was an ardous 5-hour ride, nope make it 6! The sit was uncomfortable plus the heat of the sun was scorching. But the spectacular views and towering mountains can magicaly ease the discomfort, The experience were both amazing and painstaking.
I checked my companion on top of the jeep, the locals who were already accustomed to this kind of transportation, are sitting silently and comfortably, Some were even sleeping peacefully under the heat of the sun.
The highway is narrow and placed on a cliff, and most areas are prone to landslide and there are sections of the road wherein the path is unpaved and without any railings. Enroute to Tinglayan is not for faint-hearted. It was for bravehearted and risk takers.
The highway is narrow and placed on a cliff, and most areas are prone to landslide and there are sections of the road wherein the path is unpaved and without any railings. Enroute to Tinglayan is not for faint-hearted. It was for bravehearted and risk takers.
Almost There!
We arrived in Barangay Bugnay in Tinglayan almost 12NN. your guide will assist you in getting a habal-habal driver to bring you to the turning point.
Our contact was Kuya Oliver, whom I was able to talked to few days before we went there, unfortunately he was not there when we arrived, yet we are still lucky as one local named Solomon, who happened to be a tour guide too was there to assist us. So instead of contacting Kuya Oliver, we get Solomon instead.
Our contact was Kuya Oliver, whom I was able to talked to few days before we went there, unfortunately he was not there when we arrived, yet we are still lucky as one local named Solomon, who happened to be a tour guide too was there to assist us. So instead of contacting Kuya Oliver, we get Solomon instead.
The road from Bugnay to turning point equates to danger, sharp curves and turns. yet then again, the view going up to the turning point will distract you from fear and worries.Upon arrival at the turning point, we alighted on our habal-habal and paid the fare. the fare cost P100/pax.
A few more minutes and the road is getting steeper, the cliff is getting higher and deeper, one wrong move and goodbye life! This journey are not being shared by those people who have been in Buscalan, most of them will only show their newly inked tattoos and selfies with Apo Whang Od. What you don't know is that the path going to their village is about life and death.
Knees trembling, head ache, vision is cloudy, difficulty in breathing and chest pain- almost like heart attack. I felt that yes, this is almost heart attack. probably heat stroke, whatever it is, I can't think anymore. I'm about to collapse.. Then I threw up.
I am just one hell of a lucky girl, I was with my boyfriend during this hell trek. He keep on telling me to just relax, he carry my bags, he gave me his water and really encourage me that I can reach Buscalan. I also have the power to live, or else I wont survive the said trek.
After I vomited, we rested. It was just me and Aldrich in the middle of nowhere under the scorching heat of the sun. While resting, we met some locals climbing the stairs. They were so fast! I envy them! After a few minutes of rest, we started climbing again. rest.climb.rest. Then, we finally reached the village.
I am just one hell of a lucky girl, I was with my boyfriend during this hell trek. He keep on telling me to just relax, he carry my bags, he gave me his water and really encourage me that I can reach Buscalan. I also have the power to live, or else I wont survive the said trek.
After I vomited, we rested. It was just me and Aldrich in the middle of nowhere under the scorching heat of the sun. While resting, we met some locals climbing the stairs. They were so fast! I envy them! After a few minutes of rest, we started climbing again. rest.climb.rest. Then, we finally reached the village.
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This Guy Always Got My Back |
ButBut Tribe
Kalinga came from Gaddang and Ibanag word which means outlaws or headhunters. Their main livelihood is farming. One of the tribe in Buscalan is the tribe called ButBut/BotBot. these people have the reputation as the strongest in Cordillera. They have skills in headhunting. They also have their unique way of tattooing known as "PagBaBatok". The Living legend "Mambabatok" came from this Tribe, and that is - Apo Whang Od.
After our ordeal in trekking, our guide solomon led us to our homestay. Houses in Buscalan was now converted to transient inn/homestay for tourists visiting their village. The second floor are converted as homestay for the visitors, while owners are staying on the first floor of their house.
It was a humble place. pinkish! two bedrooms. wide windows, huge sala, and an azotea where we spent most of our time while having a chit-chat over the free-unlimited Kalinga coffee!
After our ordeal in trekking, our guide solomon led us to our homestay. Houses in Buscalan was now converted to transient inn/homestay for tourists visiting their village. The second floor are converted as homestay for the visitors, while owners are staying on the first floor of their house.
It was a humble place. pinkish! two bedrooms. wide windows, huge sala, and an azotea where we spent most of our time while having a chit-chat over the free-unlimited Kalinga coffee!
I highly recommend to bring home some Kalinga coffee if ever you will be visiting Buscalan, the aroma was heavenly! and the taste is to die for. not overreacting here,seriously!
Upon arriving in our homestay, we rest for a few minutes then had a quick shower. had a sip of the kalinga coffee and marvel to the beautiful mountain surrounding us.
I was also surprised when I saw some marijuana leaves being dried up under the sun,as per our guide it is for personal consumption, for the tribe, for medical reasons. I just find it cool. I can imagine if its in Manila, tukhang agad! Hahaha
Getting Inked
Around 3PM when we left our homestay and walked a few blocks away, we are going to met Whag-Od and will be getting our first kalinga tattoo!
I was hesitant of getting Inked, I don't have any tattoo and not actually planning to have one. But when we arrived in the small hut overlooking the rest of the Buscalan area and saw in flesh the Living Legend Whang-od, I knew from then that I need to be inked by this Old lady.
I stood aghast seeing her. goosebumps all over. I only saw her in photographs and videos, yet this time, I saw her right in front of me. At 100 years old, she’s still full of strength, surreal.
I stood aghast seeing her. goosebumps all over. I only saw her in photographs and videos, yet this time, I saw her right in front of me. At 100 years old, she’s still full of strength, surreal.
All waiting to be Ink next
Past 4PM when its our group's turn to be inked!
My turn! The process was painful. It was nothing during the first few second hammering the torn into my skin, as she continue the "batok", I can already feel the pain. I considered this tattooing experience as very humbling and rewarding, It was a privileged. I am so proud of myself!
Getting Inked by the Legend! OMG!
During the night, we had some bonding sesh with the locals of Buscalan, they are young tattoo artists - Berly and SenSen. Future Mambabatok!
Good Morning Buscalan!
Good Morning Buscalan!
The next morning,I was up early, it was cold. Instead of Clucks and crows of hen, I heard pig snorts. HAHA Pigs are all over the area.
The sun was already up when we went to a karenderiain the area, it was a few blocks away, offering home-cooked meals. we ordered fried boneless bangus for our breakfast. Free unlimited rice and unli Kalinga coffee is waitng for us!
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| KALINGA COFFEE |
We roam around the village and had some good chat with some locals. The people of Buscalan are all accommodating and friendly. They welcomed us with a full heart, and let us experienced their way of life even just for a day.
Photo Opt with Whang-Od's younger sister
Having a good laugh with some locals
Some local breads from a woman of tribong bubut. We had some of it for breakfast!
See you again Buscalan!
By 8AM, we are all ready to trek back to the turning point. The way back was a lot easier and faster, It only took us less than 15minutes. wow!
from the turning point, there was a Jeeepney waiting for our us, the jeep is
from the turning point, there was a Jeeepney waiting for our us, the jeep is
bound to Bontoc, Mountain Province.
It's a 2 hr jeepney ride to Bontoc. We climbed again on top of the jeep. The views enroute to Bontoc was more spectacular than the tabuk route. But the road here are more dangerous. cliffs are as high as heaven, roads are well paved yet narrow and no railings at the edge of the cliff. It was a buwis buhay top load jeepney ride.
We arrived at Bontoc in time for Lunch. we look for D'Rising Sun Bus and bought tickets bound to Baguio, It's a 6Hours bus ride to the City of Pines.
Enroute to Baguio City from Bontoc
I will never forget this spontaneous adventure to Buscalan, I felt both fear and amazement while viewing the mountains of cordillera during the top load jeepney ride, starstrucked because of Whang -Od, my companions, the ButBut tribe and the experience is more than enough to consider this as one of those unforgettable travels I had.
In this travel too that I had my very first tattoo Inked by the legend herself - APO WHANG OD.
“Traveling – it leaves you speechless, then turns you into a storyteller.” – Ibn Battuta
HOW TO GO TO BUSCALAN TOWN PROPER IN TINGLAYAN, KALINGA FROM MANILA
1. Bus from Victory Liner Kamias to Tabuk City – (10 hours)
₱730 for Deluxe Class and the bus leaves at 7:00 PM every day.
₱840 for First Class Bus and leaves at 8:30PM.
2. Arrived in Tabuk City 5:00 AM
Then travel from Tabuk City to Tinglayan, Kalinga – (5 hours)
There are three options available going to Tinglayan from Tabuk:
Van – These vans will go directly to the turning point. fare ₱150.
Minibus – fare costs at ₱130.
Jeep – fare costs ₱130
Just tell the driver or conductor that you will alight in Barangay Bugnay in Tinglayan.
3. Take a Habal-Habal from Barangay Bugnay to Turning Point
arrived in Barangay Bugnay 12:00NN. From Barangay Bugnay, took a habal- habal up to the turning point; the fare costs ₱100.
(The TURNING POINT is the starting place of hike going to Buscalan Town Proper).
4. Hike from Turning Point to Buscalan Town Proper (1 hour and 45 minutes)
The total hike time from the turning pointto Buscalan Village is a total of 1 hour and 45 minutes; depending on your pace and fitness.
BUDGET BREAKDOWN (excluding food consumption)
Cubao to Tabuk Bus P730.00/px
Tabuk to Tinglayen Jeep P130/px
Tingalayen to Buscalan(turning point) P100/px
Guide per group P1000.00
HomeStay P300.00/px
Whang-Od Signature tattoo P100.00 minimum/px
(Other tattoo designs by Grace and Ilyang will depend on how entricate the designs are, and the size of it)
Buscalan to Bontoc jeep P130.00
Bontoc to Baguio P275.00
CONTAT PERSON/TOUR GUIDE
Solomon - 0910.809.8953
Oliver - 0939.7741477
Please contact them ahead of time
TAKE NOTE: Always keep yourself hydrated during the hike to prevent heat exhaustion. Please bring water and REST. Even if it will eat your time, just rest. We are so excited to reach Buscalan, so we forced to finished the trek in a shorter time(but took us almost 2 hrs!), I vomited, almost fainted, was dehydrated, Jesus,I was already calling all the saints asking for forgiveness and help me to survive! So please, take a REST.
P/S: Any one planning to visit there soon? lemme know, Im willing to go! ;)
Yannah
Love,
